GEK Wiki / GEK v4_2 Fabrication Instruction
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GEK v4_2 Fabrication Instruction

Page history last edited by jim mason 8 years, 10 months ago

Rocket Legs

Parts

  1. 2X- Rocket Leg Left Part#: SM1018-b

  2. 2X- Rocket Leg Right Part#: SM1019-b

 

1. Completely weld the outside of each break line seam on each rocket leg.

 

 

Swirl Burner

Parts

  1. Swirl Burner Tube Part#: SM2004-b

  2. Swirl Burner Base Plate Part#: SM1020

  3. 1.5” Nipple cut at 45º

 

  1. Place swirl burner base plate under the swirl burner tube such that the tab and slot system are locked in position.

  2. Make sure the wall edge closest to the teardrop hole is positioned on the outside of the seam.

  3. Squeeze the swirl burner tube till the walls are flush with the bottom plate and the wall overlap is constant all the way along the seam.

  4. Use a pair of plier clamps to hold together the seam overlap at the top of the swirl burner.

  5. Use a clamp to squeeze flush the middle of the swirl burner tube wall.

  6. Once all the seams are flush and in position, tack weld together every 3” – 4”

    1. Approximately 4 tacks evenly spaced around the base plate seam

    2. Approximately 4 – 5 tacks evenly spaced along the swirl burner wall seam

  7. Insert the 1.5” nipple (45º cut end first) into the teardrop shaped hole

  8. Rotate the 45º cut face of the nipple in the wall such that the hole in the swirl burner wall is completely covered.

  9. Before tack welding, make sure the nipple protrudes perpendicularly from the swirl burner wall.

  10. Tack weld in position

  11. Once everything is tack welded into position, chase each tack weld with a 1” stitch weld

  12. Continue your stitch welds around the vessel till all seams are completely welded.

 

 

Monorator Ring

Parts

  1. Monorator Flange Part#: SM1013

  2. Monorator Fence Part#: SM2013

  3. 14X- 1/2” Weld Nuts

  4. 14X- 5/16” Bolts

 

  1. Find the slag side of the monorator flange.

  2. Place lip of the weld nut into the slag side of a monorator flange bolt hole.

  3. Secure the weld nut by threading on a bolt from the opposite side of the monorator flange. If finger tight does not seam tight enough to secure nut in position, use a ½” wrench or socket for further tightening.

  4. Repeat step 2 for all 14 bolt holes.

  5. Weld each weld nut to the monorator flange along each of the long sides of the nuts. Make sure not to weld the bolt to the nut.

  6. After the monorator flange has cooled, remove each of the bolts from the monorator flange. Save these bolts for final assembly.

  7. Clamp the monorator flange securely and flush to your welding table such that the nuts are facing up.

  8. Make sure there is not any debris on the table preventing the flange from sitting flat on the table

  9. Place the flat side of the monorator fence inside the opening of the flange such that the tabs are facing up.

  10. Starting from one end of fence, make sure it is both flush to the welding table and flush to the inside face of the flange.

  11. Tack weld in position

  12. Chase the fence around the flange repeating steps 10 and 11.

  13. Once the fence is tack welded into position, chase each tack weld with a 1” stitch weld

  14. Continue your stitch welds around the fence seam till all seam is completely welded.

 

 

Lollipop

Parts

  1. Grate Support Ledge Lollipop Part#: SM1011

  2. Grate Support Ledge Fence Part#: SM2012-c

 

  1. Clamp the lollipop securely and flush to table such that the slag side is facing up.

  2. Place the slotted side of the fence inside the lollipop opening such that the tab and slot system are secured in position.

  3. Starting from one end of the fence, make sure it is both flush to the welding table and flush to the inside face of the lollipop.

  4. Chase with tack welds, connecting the fence to the lollipop.

  5. Once the fence is tacked into position, chase each tack weld with a 1” stitch weld around the perimeter until 1” welds are spaced every 1”-2” apart.

 

 

Ash Grate

Parts

  1. 12.75” Diameter Perforated Plate Part#: SM1046

  2. 2X- Grate Perf. Support Cross Part#: SM2015-b

  3. Grate Perf. Support Fence Part#: SM2014-b

  4. 3/8” Barrel Nut

 

  1. Connect the 2 ash grate support cross pieces together by sliding them into each others slot such that they are perpendicular to each other.

  2. Tack weld ash grate support pieces together where they intersect to create a secure perpendicular cross.

  3. With the new cross positioned flat on the weld table, place the ash grate support fence around the cross.

  4. Squeeze together the fence around the support cross such that the ends overlap and are tight and flush to the support cross.

  5. Use a plier clamp to secure the fence overlap.

  6. Tack weld together once the fence and cross are tightly connected and flush.

 

Orientation: Place perforated plate flat on the table, sharp hole edge up.

 

  1. Position the grate support cross/fence centered flat on the perforated plate.

  2. Once centered, make sure the cross/fence and perforated plate are flat and flush to one another.

  3. Tack weld into position on inner seam. Place tack welds every 1/4” - 1/2” along inside seam.

  4. Place 1” - 1.5” weld centered on the seam connecting each leg of the cross to the perforated plate.

  5. Weld the inside seam of the fence overlap.

 

Orientation: Turn the ash grate over such that the support assembly is flat on the table and the perforated plate is facing up.

 

  1. Place the barrel nut in line with an arm of the support cross about 1/8” from the edge.

  2. Once the barrel nut is perpendicular and flat to the perforated plate, tack weld into position, then follow with deep, continuous welds along the 2 long side of the barrel nut.

 

 

Ash Port Plate

Parts

  1. Ash Port Cover Part#: SM1010-b

  2. Ash Port Insulation Hanger Part#: SM2022-b

  3. 1.5” Weld Coupler

  4. 1.5” Tube

 

Orientation: Place weld coupler on table such that the taper side is facing down and the flat side is faced up.

 

  1. With the slag side of the ash port plate facing up, place on top of the coupler such that the 1.5” hole closest to the center slot is centered on the coupler.

  2. Once in position, tack weld the seam on 2 opposing sides.

 

Orientation: Turn ash port plate over and clamp flat to table.

 

  1. Place the 1.5” tube into the other hole

  2. While making sure the tube is perpendicular to the plate, tack weld into position on four sides.

 

Orientation: Hold plate in hand with the flat side exposed.

 

  1. Position tabs of the stainless insulation hanger into the slots of the plate.

  2. Carefully flip over the plate onto the table such that the insulation hanger is on the bottom side of the plate and the coupler and tube are facing up.

  3. After making sure the hanger tabs are still secure in their allocated slots, weld along the exposed slots on the top of the plate to attach the hanger to the plate. Weld must be air tight.

  4. Finish welding both the coupler and tube to the outside of the plate by alternating stitch welds until seams are completely welded and air tight.

 

 

Mason Jar Ring

Parts

  1. 1” Weld Coupler

  2. Mason Jar Top Ring Part#: SM2008

 

Orientation: Place weld coupler on table such that the taper side is faced down and the flat side is faced up.

 

  1. Place mason jar ring on top of the coupler such that it is centered on the coupler.

  2. Once in position, tack weld the seam on 2 opposing sides.

  3. Tack weld ash grate support pieces together where they intersect to create a secure perpendicular cross.

 

Orientation: Turn the ring over so that the ring sits flat on the table.

 

  1. Finish welding the coupler to the outside of the ring by alternating stitch welds until seams are completely welded and air tight.

 

 

Puff Lid Bottom Flange

Parts

  1. Hopper Puff Flange Part#: SM1014

  2. 6X- 1/2” Welds Nuts

  3. 6X- 5/16” Bolts Temporary Part

 

  1. Place lip of the weld nut into the slag side of a flange bolt hole.

  2. Secure the weld nut by threading on a bolt from the opposite side of the flange.

  3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the remaining weld nuts.

  4. Weld each weld nut to the flange along each of the long sides of the nuts. Make sure not to weld to bolt to the nut.

  5. Remove all bolts once flange has cooled off.

 

 

Air Nozzles

Parts

  1. 5X- 1” Tubes

  2. 5X- 3/8” Street 90

 

  1. Hold the larger end of the street 90 flush and centered to one end of the tube securely in gloved hand.

  2. Tack weld the seam on opposite sides.

  3. Finish welding the seam such that it is air tight all the way around.

  4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the remaining 4 tubes and street 90s.

 

 

Reactor Lid

Parts

  1. Reactor Lid Part#: SM1005-c

  2. ½” Weld Coupler

  3. 2X- 1.5” Weld Coupler

  4. 2X- 5/16” Threaded Rod 1 1/8” long

  5. 2X- 5/16” Nut Temporary Part

 

Tip: Be very careful welding the top plate which can warp easily from welding heat. Keep lid clamped during and after welding until cool.

 

Orientation: Position top plate on edge of table such that slag side is facing up and the two 5/16” holes on either side of the 3” diameter hole are just off the edge of the table.

 

I. Attach Threaded Rod to Reactor Lid

 

  1. Secure the top plate to the table using a series of clamps.

  2. Screw a temporary nut on the end of each threaded rod such that 1/16” is exposed.

  3. From the bottom side of the top plate, place the 1/16” end of the threaded rod up into one of the two 5/16” holes of the top plate. The threaded rod should extend 1/16” into the hole and should not extend beyond the top side of the hole.

  4. From under the top plate, securely hold the threaded rod perpendicular to the top plate with free gloved hand.

  5. Weld shut the top of the 5/16” hole, securing the threaded rod to the top plate. Make sure that the weld is air tight.

  6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the second threaded rod.

  7. Let the reactor lid cool before unclamping to minimize

 

II. Attach Plumbing to Reactor Top Plate

 

Orientation: Once the top plate has cooled, unclamp from table, turn over such that the threaded rods are facing up, and re-secure to table using a series of clamps.

 

  1. Place the flat face of the 1/2” weld coupler centered over the 1/2” hole of the top plate and tack into position.

  2. Place the flat face of each 1.5” weld coupler centered over each of the 1.5” holes of the top plate and tack into position.

  3. Finish welding the plumbing to the top of the top plate by alternating stitch welds between each plumbing part till each are air tight.

  4. Let cool before unclamping to minimize warping of the top plate.

 

 

 

Gas Cowling

Parts

  1. Gas Cowling Vessel Tube Part#: SM2001-b

  2. Gas Cowling Base Plate Part#: SM1008-2

  3. Gas Cowling Top Flange Part#: SM1007

  4. 8X- 3/8” Weld Studs

  5. 8X- 5/8” Nut

  6. 1.5” Weld Coupler

  7. ½” Close Nipple

  8. Ash Port Fence Part#: SM2006-b

  9. Ash Port Flange Part#: SM1009

  10. Gas Cowling Out Square Tube Part#: SM2005-b

  11. Square Two Inch Flange Part#: SM1012-2

  12. ½” Weld Coupler

 

 

I. Attach Weld Studs to Gas Cowling Wall

 

  1. Insert each of the 3/8” weld studs through the 3/8” holes of the gas cowling wall from the inside such that the threads are on the outside of the vessel wall.

  2. Secure each weld stud by tightening on a nut.

  3. Once the weld studs are secure, completely weld each stud head to the inside of the gas cowling wall such that it is air tight. These welds must be done inside the vessel, NOT the outside.

 

II. Attach Bottom Plate to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: Locate the bottom of the gas cowling. This is the side closest to weld studs.

 

  1. Place the bottom plate into the cowling vessel with the slag side facing in. Orient bottom plate such that the tabs rest in the slots of the gas cowling wall.

  2. A ratchet strap may be used to pull the gas cowling wall as snug as possible to the edge of the bottom plate.

  3. Use a plier clamp to hold the top of the gas cowling wall seam overlap in position. Expect approximately a 1/4” overlap all the way up the gas cowling wall.

  4. Once the bottom plate tabs are in position and edges are snug to the gas cowling wall, completely weld the outside of each slot securing the bottom plate into place. Do NOT weld or tack the gas cowling seam at this time.

 

III. Attach Top Flange to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: Position the gas cowling upright on the table.

 

Tip: Make sure to start the series of tack welds on one side of the gas cowling vessel seam and work around finishing on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the gas cowling vessel wall stays tight and flush against the flange.

 

  1. Place the top flange into position on top of the gas cowling wall such that the slag side is facing down and tabs position into slots.

  2. Starting next to the seam, secure the top flange flush to the gas cowling wall using a clamp or plier clamp.

  3. Chase the flange around the vessel wall with a clamp or plier clamp while tacking the flange into position.

  4. Use enough tack welds to ensure the gas cowling wall stays tight and flush to the top flange.

 

IV. Attach 1.5” Weld Coupler to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: Position the gas cowling on its side such that the 1.5” hole is facing up.

 

  1. Place the 1.5” weld coupler over the 1.5” hole on the outside of the gas cowling such that the flat face of the coupler is in contact with the gas cowling.

  2. Making sure the coupler is centered over the hole, tack weld on the two opposite sides of the coupler where it is in contact with the cowling wall.

  3. Then tack weld the coupler on the other two opposing sides where the sides of the coupler are floating above the cowling wall. There should now be 4 equidistant tacks around the coupler.

  4. Completely weld the coupler to the gas cowling wall such that it is air tight.

 

V. Attach 1/2” Close Nipple to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: With the gas cowling still on its side, position such that the 1/2” hole is facing up.

 

  1. Place the 1/2” close nipple over the hole on the gas cowling and give it a twist to secure in position.

  2. After making sure the nipple is extending perpendicularly from the gas cowling wall, tack weld into position.

  3. Completely weld the nipple to the gas cowling wall such that it is air tight.

 

VI. Assemble Ash Port

 

  1. Hold and secure the ash port fence such that each face is perpendicular to the adjacent face and the open face is closed and edges are flush and aligned.

  2. Once the fence is secure in this position, tack weld in the middle of the seam

  3. Secure the ash port flange flat on the table using a series of clamps. Make sure to leave the inner opening accessible.

  4. Position the fence flat in the opening of the flange such that it is centered and perpendicular to the flange and curved face is oriented up.

  5. Using a series of clamps, secure the fence in the opening of the flange such that it is centered and perpendicular to the flange.

  6. Tack weld the fence to flange around the seam.

  7. Completely weld the fence to the flange such that it is air tight.

 

VII. Assemble Gas Out Square Tube

 

  1. Hold and secure the gas out square tube such that each face is perpendicular to the adjacent face, the open face is closed seam, and the seam is flush and aligned. A clamp may help securing in position.

  2. Once the fence is secure in position, tack weld the middle of the seam.

 

Orientation: Position the square tube such that the 1/2” hole is facing up.

 

  1. Center the 1/2” weld coupler on the hole such that the flat face is in contact with the square tube and tack into position.

  2. Finish welding the weld coupler to the square tube such that it is air tight.

  3. Using a series of clamps, secure the square two inch flange flat on the table. Make sure to leave the inner opening accessible.

  4. Place the square tube in the opening of the flange such that it is centered and perpendicular to the flange.

  5. Once secure in position, tack weld around the seam.

  6. Completely weld the square tube to the flange such that it is air tight.

 

VIII. Attach Ash Port to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: Position the cowling on its side with the ash port opening facing up.

 

  1. Place the previously welded up ash port in position of the cowling opening.

  2. Once the ash port is centered over the gas cowling opening, use straight edges and a measuring tape to ensure it is in line with the cowling wall and not sitting at an angle.

  3. Once in position, tack weld around the seam.

  4. Completely weld the ash port to the cowling wall such that it is air tight.

IX. Attach the Gas Out Square Tube to the Gas Cowling

 

Orientation: Position the cowling up right on the table with the square tube port facing the front.

 

  1. Hold the previously welded square tube to the port in the cowling wall such that the weld coupler is on the left side.

  2. Use a clamp to secure the square tube to the cowling top flange.

  3. Position the square tube centered over the gas cowling opening and use a straight edges to ensure it is inline with the vessel wall and level with the top flange.

  4. Once in position, tack weld around the seam to secure to the cowling.

  5. Completely weld the square tub eo the gas cowling, including around the cowling top flange such that it is air tight.

 

 

Reactor

Parts

  1. Reactor Vessel Tube Part#: SM2002-b

  2. Reactor Top-Flange Part#: SM1001

  3. Reactor Mid-Flange Part#: SM1002

  4. Reactor Bottom-Flange Part#: SM1003

  5. Air Neck Part#: SM2010-b

  6. 1” Weld Coupler

  7. 2X -1” Tube

  8. 5X- 1/2” Elbows

  9. 5X- 5/8” – 1/2” Gas Line Connectors

 

I. Attach Mid Flange to the Reactor Vessel

 

Orientation: Position the reactor vessel such that it is up right.

 

  1. With the slag side of the mid-flange facing down, slide the mid flange down the reactor and position such that the tabs snap into the vessel slots.

  2. Use clamps to secure all tabs in slots and maintain a tight and flush connection between the mid flange and reactor vessel.

  3. Make sure the overlap on the top and bottom of the vessel seam is even and secure with a plier clamp.

  4. Leaving 6” on either side of the seam clear, tack weld the top of the mid-flange to the reactor vessel.

  5. Leaving 6” on either side of the seam clear, tack weld the top of the mid-flange to the reactor vessel.

 

II. Attach Top-Flange to Reactor Vessel

 

Orientation: Position the reactor vessel on the table such that it is facing up.

 

Tip: Tack welds must be as small as possible to ensure the air neck fits properly.

 

  1. Place the top flange on top of the reactor vessel such that the slag side is facing down.

  2. Fine tune positioning till the bolt holes of the top-flange are even with the bolt holes of the mid flange and make sure the top flange is flush with the top edge of the reactor.

  3. Tack the underside of the top flange in position, start at one side of the seam and working around.

 

III. Attach Bottom Flange to Reactor Vessel

 

Orientation: Turn the reactor vessel over such that it is now upside-down.

 

  1. Position the bottom flange on the reactor such that it fits in the tab and slot system and the slag side is facing up, NOT inside the vessel.

 

Orientation: In this position, the small holes of the bottom flange should be to the left of the larger holes while looking counter clockwise. If looking at the bottom flange through the inside of the reactor, the smaller holes of the bottom flange should be to the right of the larger holes while looking clockwise.

 

  1. Starting from the reactor seam, chase clamps around the bottom flange to secure a tight and flush connection with the reactor vessel wall.

  2. Also starting at the seam and working around, tack weld the bottom flange to the reactor vessel approximately every 6”.

 

IV. Finish Welding the Mid Flange to the Reactor Vessel

 

  1. Using 1” stitch welds, finish welding the mid flange to the reactor vessel such that it is air tight.

 

V. Weld the Vessel Seam Between the Mid Flange and the Top Flange.

 

1. Weld the seam such that it is air tight.

 

VI. Finish Welding the Bottom Flange to the Reactor Vessel

 

  1. Using 1” stitch welds, finish welding the bottom flange to the reactor vessel such that it is air tight.

 

VII. Attach Gas Line Connectors to the Mid Flange

 

Orientation: Position the reactor back to its upright position.

 

  1. Insert the gas line connector from the bottom, into the mid flange hole.

  2. While holding the connector from the bottom, make sure it is centered in the hole and flush to the bottom of the mid flange.

  3. Tack weld the gas line connector to the top of the mid-flange.

  4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the other gas line connectors.

  5. After all 5 gas line connectors are tacked in place, finish welding each by starting in the narrow slot between the connector and the vessel wall, weld completely around such that the gas line connector is air tight.

VIII. Attach the Air Neck to the Reactor

 

Orientation: Position the air neck around the reactor vessel between the top flange and mid flange.

 

Tip: Make sure not to pull open the air neck too much for it may change its shape and become difficult to attach to the reactor.

 

  1. The 2 smaller holes on the air neck need to be aligned with the same size holes of the reactor wall. This can happen in two configurations. The correct configuration will have the seam of the air neck approximately 6” from the reactor seam, NOT on the opposite side of the reactor.

  2. Place the 1” tubes into the 2 smaller holes so that they protrude into the reactor vessel.

  3. If the air neck is not perfectly aligned, use one of the 6” long 1/2” nipple to put inside the 1” tube and pry till the holes of the air neck are perfectly aligned with the holes of the reactor.

 

Tip: Since alignment is very important, also make sure the bottom edge of the air neck is flush with the top of the mid flange, the bottom edge of the air neck is equidistant from all mid flange bolt holes, AND there is between 1/16” and 1/8” space between the top edge of the air neck and the bottom face of the top flange.

 

  1. Clamp the air neck to the reactor vessel at the air neck seam to secure in position.

  2. Tack weld the air neck seam securely. Tack weld the air neck seam to the mid flange. Tack weld the air neck seam to the top flange.

  3. Tack weld the air neck around the mid flange. Tack weld the air neck around the top flange.

  4. Stitch weld the air neck to the top flange till it is completely welded and air tight. Stitch weld the air neck around the mid flange till it is completely welded and air tight.

  5. Finish welding the air neck seam till it is air tight.

 

IX. Attach the 1” Tube to the Air Neck and Reactor Vessel

 

  1. Center the 1” tube in both the air neck and reactor vessel hole such that approximately 1/8” is sticking through the reactor wall.

  2. Once in position tack weld the tube to the reactor wall from inside the reactor.

  3. Make sure the tube is still centered in the air neck hole and tack weld the tube to the outside of the air neck.

  4. Completely weld the tube to the air neck such that it is air tight.

 

X. Finish Welding the Reactor Seam

 

  1. Tack weld the reactor seam in 4 evenly spaced sections.

  2. Stitch weld long each tack weld till the seam is completely welded and air tight.

 

XI. Attach the 1/2” Elbow to the Bottom Flange

 

Orientation: Turn the reactor on its side such that the bottom flange is facing away you.

 

  1. Use a long straight edge and a scribe to draw a straight line up the inside of the reactor vessel from each of the 5 larger holes on the bottom flange.

  2. After lines are drawn from each of the 5 larger holes, turn the reactor around such that the bottom flange is facing you and one of the larger holes is at its lowest position.

  3. Screw a 6” long 1/2” nipple to a 1/2” elbow. The 1/2” nipple is used as fixture.

  4. Place the free end of the 1/2” elbow in the lowest hole of the bottom flange.

  5. Screw a 6” long 1/2” nipple to both ends of a 1/2” coupler. This nipple assembly is also used as a fixture.

  6. Place this nipple assembly fixture inside the reactor vessel and screw onto the open end of the 1/2” elbow.

  7. The unused 4” square flange just like the one welded to the gas cowling can be used to hold the nipple assembly fixture parallel to the reactor wall by placing it flat between the nipple assembly fixture and the reactor wall, over the scribed line.

  8. Once the nipple assembly fixture is in position, hold the elbow centered in the hole such that the end under the bottom flange is 1/8” from the bottom flange.

  9. While holding in position, rotate the elbow such that the other 1/2” nipple is extending to the left close to horizontal. It should be between 1/2” and 1” under the smaller hole on the left side of the bottom flange.

  10. Once all this is in position, tack weld the elbow to the bottom of the bottom flange.

  11. Repeat steps 4 - 10 for the remaining 4 elbows and bottom flange holes.

  12. After all elbows are tacked in position, weld completely around each elbow, including the neck of the elbow such that it is air tight, but make sure not to weld the threads.

 

 

Pack Bed Filter

Parts

  1. 16 Gallon Barrel

  2. 16 Gallon Barrel Lid

  3. 4X- 3/8” Weld Studs

  4. 4X- 5/8” Nuts

  5. 2X- 1.5” Weld Coupler

  6. ½” Weld Coupler

  7. ½” -1/4” Reducing Bushing

 

Tip: Be very careful welding to the filter barrel which is very thin and easy to blow threw while welding.

 

I. Attach Weld Studs to Filter Barrel

 

Orientation: Lay the filter barrel on its side with the large hole facing up.

 

  1. Place the 1.5” weld coupler centered over the hole such that the tapered face of the coupler is facing up and the flat face is flush to the filter.

  2. Tack weld the coupler to the filter barrel in the two places it is in contact.

  3. Tack weld the coupler to the barrel on both the cantilevered sides so that there are 4 evenly spaces tacks.

  4. Finish welding the coupler to the filter barrel such that it is air tight

 

II. Attach the 1/2” Weld Coupler to the Filter Barrel

 

Orientation: With the filter barrel still on its side, position such that the single small hole against the bottom is orientated up.

 

  1. Place the 1/2” weld coupler centered over the hole such that the tapered face of the coupler is facing up and the flat face is flush to the filter.

  2. Tack weld the coupler to the filter barrel in the 2 places it is in contact.

  3. Tack weld the coupler to the barrel on both cantilevered sides so that there are now 4 evenly spaced tack welds.

  4. Finish welding the coupler to the filter barrel such that it is air tight

 

III. Attach the 1.5” Weld Coupler to the Filter Lid

 

Orientation: Set 1.5” weld coupler, tapered side down, on the table. Place the filter lid upside down on the flat face of the coupler such that the large hole is centered on the coupler. The bottom side of the filter lid should be facing up.

 

  1. Tack weld the filter lid to the coupler with 2 or 3 tacks.

 

Orientation: Turn the filter lid over on the table and position such that the small hole is over on opening in the table so that a bushing can be inserted.

 

  1. Use a number of clamps to evenly secure the filter lid to the table. The use of clamps will help minimize warping caused from welding

  2. Finish welding the coupler to the top of the filter lid such that it is air tight.

  3. Do not remove the camps till competing the follow steps and the lid assembly has cooled off.

 

IV. Attach the Bushing to the Filter Lid

 

  1. Push the threaded end of the bushing through the smaller hole in the filter lid.

  2. Tack weld the bushing in position on 3 or 4 sides.

  3. Finish welding the bushing to the filter lid such that it is air tight.

  4. Do not remove the clamps till the filter has completely cooled off. This will help minimize warping from occurring.

 

 

Cyclone

Parts

  1. Cyclone Vessel Tube Part#: SM2003

  2. Cyclone Base Plate Part#: SM1017-b

  3. Cyclone Top Flange Part#: SM1016-b

  4. Cyclone Square Inlet Tube Part#: SM2007-b

  5. Square Two Inch Flange Part#: SM1012

  6. 1” Close Nipple

  7. Cyclone Taper Insert Part#: SM2051

  8. Cyclone Out Top Cap Part#: 1015-b

  9. 6” long 2” tube

 

I. Assemble Cyclone Square Inlet Tube

 

  1. Clamp the wall of the cyclone square inlet tube such that the seam is closed and edges are flush. Once the seam is in position, tack weld the seam at least 1/2” from the ends of the seam.

 

Positioning: Place 4” square flange on the table.

 

  1. Place the square end of the cyclone square tube in the opening of the 4” square flange and tack into position.

 

II. Attach the Top Flange to the Cyclone Vessel

 

  1. Place the large open end of the square inlet tube into the side opening of the cyclone vessel wall.

 

Positioning: If the cyclone vessel is sitting upright and the opening in the cyclone wall is towards the top, the seam for the square inlet tube should be on the bottom right corner.

 

  1. With the cyclone vessel in this orientation, position the top flange on the top of the vessel such that the tab and slots are align and bolt holes are not sitting directly over the square inlet tube.

 

  1. Remove the square inlet tube.

  2. In the case that the cyclone vessel is a rolled piece of sheet metal (not a cut tube), clamps may be needed to squeeze the vessel till the top flange fits. Use a plier clamp to secure the overlap towards the bottom of the vessel.

  3. Tack the top flange in position once it is flush and even with the top of the cyclone vessel wall. Do NOT tack the square inlet tube.

 

III. Assemble the Stainless Steel Taper

 

  1. Use a pair of plier clamps to secure a 1/2” overlap on the large opening of the stainless steel taper. See adjacent picture for proper overlap. Squeeze the smaller opening such that the 1” close nipple sits upright from the taper. It is important that the nipple does NOT sit on the taper opening at an angle.

  2. The ID of the close nipple and taper opening should be as close as possible to minimize a shelf that may be created from the nipple. Once in position, tack weld the close nipple to the taper.

 

IV. Position the Stainless Steel Taper Inside the Cyclone Vessel

 

Positioning: Place the cyclone vessel upside down on the table such that the top flange is at the bottom.

 

  1. Slide the large opening end of the taper into the vessel and slide down till approximately half of the close nipple extends from the cyclone.

 

V. Attach the Bottom Flange to the Cyclone Vessel

 

  1. Slide the bottom flange over the 1” close nipple and position such that the bottom flange tabs align with the vessel slots.

 

Tip: In the case that the cyclone vessel is rolled sheet metal, clamps may be needed to squeeze the vessel till the bottom flange fits.

 

Tip: Make sure 1/2 of the 1” close nipple is extending out past the bottom flange.

 

  1. Once the bottom flange is tight and flush to the cyclone vessel, tack weld in position.

 

VI. Weld the Cyclone Vessel Seams

 

Tip: In the case that the cyclone vessel is rolled sheet metal, tack the vessel seam in thirds or quarters. This makes sure the vessel seam does not open up when it is getting welded.

 

  1. Finish welding the cyclone vessel seam.

  2. Finish welding the bottom plate to the cyclone vessel.

  3. Completely weld the 1” close nipple to the bottom plate.

VII. Attach the Square Inlet Tube to the Cyclone Vessel

 

Tip: The assembled gas cowling will be needed in the following steps. Grind flat both the 4” square flange attached to the gas cowling and the 4” square flange attached to the square inlet tube.

 

  1. Bolt the 4” square flange of the square inlet tube to the 4” square flange extending from the gas cowling such that the square inlet tube seam is positioned on the bottom left corner. Make sure the 4” square flanges are flush and even with each other.

  2. Slide the cyclone vessel onto the square inlet tube such that the cyclone top flange sits on top of the square inlet tube.

  3. Make sure the bolt holes of the top flange are not positioned right on top of the square inlet tube. If they are, the top flange is tacked on in the wrong position and needs to be removed and tacked on in the correct position. Double check steps outlined under Section II. Attach Top Flange to the Cyclone Vessel.

  4. Secure the cyclone vessel in position by clamping the top flange to the square inlet tube.

  5. Use a level to check all vertical and horizontal alignment of the cyclone vessel in relation to the cowling. It is very important that it is as level as possible before welding.

  6. Once the cyclone is in a plum/level position, tack weld the cyclone to the square inlet tube such that it’s position is secure.

  7. Recheck level and finish tacking the square inlet tube to the 4” square flange. Finish welding the square inlet tube to the 4” square flange such that it is air tight.

  8. Completely weld around the intersection of the square inlet tube with the cyclone vessel and top flange.

  9. Remove the cyclone from the gas cowling and finish welding the square inlet tube and the top flange.

 

VIII. Assemble the Cyclone Top Plate

 

  1. Place the cyclone top plate, slag side up on a couple 3/4” standoffs, such as a 1/2” weld coupler or 1/2” nipple.

  2. Slide the 6” long 2” tube into the 2” hole of the top plate.

  3. Tack weld the tube to the top plate.

  4. Finish welding the tube to the top plate.

 

 

Hearth

Parts

  1. Hearth Base Flange Part#: SM1004

  2. Hearth 3” Bottom Cone Part#: SM2018

  3. Hearth 3” Top Cone Part#: SM2017

  4. Thermocouple Sleeve

  5. 5X- 5/16” Weld Tab Nuts

 

NOTE: Since the hearth is a stainless steel component, it should be welded using stainless steel welding wire if possible. Proper ventilation and respirators need to be used anytime welding stainless.

 

I. Attach the Hearth Base Cone to the Base Flange

 

  1. Squeeze the base cone to create a ¼” overlap on the smaller opening.

  2. Use a plier clamp to secure the overlap on this smaller opening. Make sure the overlap edges of flush.

  3. With the larger opening of base cone flat on table, slide the base flange over it while making sure that the smaller holes on the flange are to the right of the larger holes when looking clockwise.

  4. Clamp the base flange flat to the table such that the bottom edge of the base cone is tight and flush to the inner edge of the base flange.

  5. Tack weld the base cone to the base flange.

  6. Make sure the overlap on the base cone is as consistent as possible and tack the seam.

 

II. Attach the Top Cone to the Bottom Cone

 

  1. Place the smaller opening of the top cone on the smaller opening of the bottom cone such that the seams of each cone are inline.

  2. Make sure the overlaps of both cones are consistent in size and direction.

  3. Secure overlap with a pair of plier clamps.

  4. The seam created where the bottom cone intersects the top cone should be flush and consistent. Any shelf created by the bottom cone can create material flow challenges when gasifier is running and should therefore be avoided.

  5. Once aligned and in position, tack the bottom cone to the top cone.

  6. Tack the seam of the top cone.

 

III. Attach Weld Tab Nuts to Base Flange

 

  1. Place weld nuts into the bolt holes on top of the base flange.

  2. Position the weld nuts such that the long face is running along the outer edge of the base flange

  3. Also make sure that the lip on the one side of the weld nut treads rests in the bolt holes of the base flange.

  4. Before tacking into place, secure each weld nut by tightening a temporary bolt on each nut from the underside.

  5. While avoiding the bolt threads, attach each weld nut to the base flange using 2 or 3 good penetrating tack welds. The weld nuts do not need to be welded all the way around.

 

IV. Finish Welding Hearth Seams

 

  1. Stitch weld the base flange to the bottom cone till it is complete and air tight.

  2. Finish welding the outside of the base cone seam

  3. Finish welding the outside of the top cone seam

  4. Stitch weld outside seam connecting the bottom cone to the top cone.

 

V. Prep Hearth for Attaching Thermocouple Sleeve

 

  1. Prep hearth by placing upright on table.

  2. Identify the 5 crescent shape cut outs on the outer edge of the base flange. These are where the air nozzles will come up from which the thermocouple sleeve must not interfere with. The thermocouple sleeve will extend from a hole in the seam connecting the bottom cone to the top cone between any 2 of the air nozzles.

  3. Mark the seam connecting the bottom cone to the top cone between any 2 of the crescent shape cut outs.

  4. Drill a ¼” hole into this seam.

 

VI. Prepare Thermocouple Sleeve

 

  1. Very carefully weld the hole on one end of the thermocouple sleeve. It is very important that the hole is completely covered and the weld is nothing more than a tack weld. Any large weld on the end will need to be ground down.

 

VII. Attach the Thermocouple Sleeve to the Hearth

 

  1. Place the tacked end of the thermocouple sleeve into the ¼” hole in the seam of the hearth.

  2. The thermocouple sleeve should extend into the hearth restriction 3/8”

  3. Make sure the sleeve is arcing in an upward position and tack in place from the outside of the hearth.

  4. Finish tack welding around the thermocouple sleeve where it intersects with the hearth till it is air tight. Make sure not to melt through the sleeve. After the sleeve is welded, test to sleeve by inserting the thermocouple into it and make sure it is able to extend all the way to the end.

 

 

Novaflex

Parts

  1. 6’ length of 2” Novaflex

  2. 2X- No Hub Coupler

  3. RTV Silicone

 

 

I. Assemble Novaflex

 

  1. Wipe down each end of the novaflex to remove any dirt and oils

  2. Liberally spread RTV on 2” of one end of the novaflex.

  3. Place the no hub coupler on the RTV side of the novaflex and make sure it is completely inserted.

  4. Do not tighten the no hub coupler till it is ready to install on the gasifier.

  5. Repeat steps 2 - 4 for the other end of the novaflex.

 

 

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